Watco 65851 Danish Oil Wood Finish, Pint, Dark Walnut

Great product. Easy to use. Looks amazing!

I have been using watco natural Danish oil for years. It brings out the natural wood color, and hardens the wood when it drys. And as I understand it is food safe.

We had a new butcher block countertop installed, after some research decided to protect it with Danish Oil, this was a good decision. The oil is super easy too apply to the butcher block, and did not leave any streaks, beautiful.

Love the danish oil, easy to apply, gives my oak dining table a lustrous finish. That said you still need to apply another polyurethane finish to prevent grease to seep through the wood,

Provides a beautiful finish for my woodworking projects. Goes on easy, and dries quickly. Very happy with my purchase

Danish Oil... what is it really? It sounds impressive but is it really impressive? Tung Oil v. Teak Oil vs. Danish Oil Watco Danish Oil is a good product for what it is but it is NOT what it sounds like... a true oil. It is a oil/varnish mixtures that contain an oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. Watco Danish Oil doesn't last long and needs constant re-application. It is not durable. It does makes wood pretty bringing out the natural grain patterns but do do many other products such as natural color stains, or Waterlox Tung Oils Finishes. Any thing will bring out the beauty that is not opaque. What do you really want to do? It all depends on what you are using any of these products for. Do you want something that will actually look fantastic, seal the wood, and provide some protection to a moisture-rich environment. Do you want to stay away from the cheap "plastic" look of polyurethane? You might want to try something other than Danish Oil. I don't care what Bethany or anyone else said on here, it is not true. Danish Oil will NOT provide water proofing at all, it will not even provide minimul water protection of any kind. It will spur the growth of mold. Your wood piece will be ruined if it gets wet. Either it will discolor, swell or delaminate in contact with water. Time is the factor that determines how quick this happens. There is no such thing as water PROOF when it comes to these faux oil combinations or true 100% oils, either. Even the highly regarded Waterlox Marine Sealer is not totally waterproof. And it is one of the best products, if not THE best, out there for wooden boats. It will last a long time getting wet. But not forever. Try Waterlox Original in Gloss or Satin. Watco Danish Oil is simply ok stuff, but Waterlox beats it hands down in almost all applications. Lesson learned over many, many years of fine wood working. I have done furniture finishing and refinishing for a living for 20 plus years and now do it strictly for a hobby. I have used every product made to man including spraying lacquer. The confusion? There is so much marketing garbage associated with all the "oils" related to wood finishing. First, is the question of what do you mean by "tung oil"? Do you mean real, 100%, pure tung oil (a drying oil) or one of the many faux "tung oil finishes" most of which contain no real tung oil at all. Tung Oil Finishes (like Minwax Tung Oil Finish and many others) are oil/varnish "faux" mixtures that contain linseed oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. You can make your own by mixing equal parts of the three components. Making your own is easy and cheaper by far. And just as good as something with a name brand that you pay dearly for. Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. This tung oil and linseed oil mixture is then mixed with varnish and mineral spirits. Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. Again, a "faux" mixture. It is minus the tung oil. See a pattern here? In other words, these faux finishes...Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are darn near identical. They all lead you to believe you are getting something rare and exotic. The differences are based on marketing, not performance. Of course, there is also real, 100% pure tung oil and also 100% boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that the 100% tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistantthan the 100% boiled linseed oil. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold. Mold is nasty stuff. So, how does this all fit into your project? Most faux oil finishes are not very protective from a water resistance or abrasion resistance point of view. These oils are an in-the-wood finish that will leave the natural look and feel to the wood, which is beautiful because wood is of course, beautiful. None are long lasting and require frequent renewal to maintain their properties and looks. These oil/varnishes are good for furniture items that do not get heavy abuse but I would not recommend any oil as a finish for something in a bathroom or moisture laden kitchen unless you are willing to perform the maintenance. The appropriate finish in a bathroom or kitchen wet area is a film finish. Once again Waterlox Original Sealer would be a good choice. I have heard it is just a thinned varnish. How untrue. It has Tung Oil in it. It's a combination of phenolic resin/tung oil/varnish/mineral spirits that has excellent water and abrasion resistance. It penetrates wood deeply and that is the key to a long lasting water resistant finish. A few coats of this to build it up a bit and you are set to go. Phenolic resin is what gives it the water resistance. And without the tung oil, Waterlox extraordinary finishes wouldn't be possible. The key to this being such a great product is the percentage mixture of the ingredients. A closely guarded secret, of course. And another benefit is it looks just like a Danish, Tung or Teak oil finish as far as final finish that will leave the natural look and feel to your wood. Yet this mix will give you water protection and mold growth protection while also giving you the woods true and natural beauty. No plastic polyurethane look with this stuff. This is my personal recommendation for all fine furniture or just regular every day furniture, no matter what the application or wood product. It makes your wood beautiful, but functional also. Another good product for water resistance and abrasion resistance is Behlen's Rockhard varnish. Myself, I use both Waterlox and Behlens. I prefer Waterlox, all things considered. But either one is fantastic. Then there is "lacquer" for extreme long life on interior woods. It comes in satin, semi or gloss finish but it is not easy to apply. It must be sprayed and it must be done in a proper environment as the fumes given off by drying are extremely explosive. Yes, I said "EXPLOSIVE" and I mean it. Drying fumes are extremely dangerous and could KILL YOU in an explosion. It doesn't take much for it to explode and lacquer is NOT for the do-it-yourselfer. Even if you don't have an explosion, you do not want to get the fumes in your lungs. Better left to a professional in a properly equipped shop with the proper ventilation required to spray lacquer. Ok, polyurethane. For best appearance, I would avoid using a polyurethane varnish. To me, it's just not very pretty stuff. But it does have it's place. If you don't care about the plastic look and you need moisture protection, have at it. It is cheaper than Waterlox. Lastly, Watco is now "not shipping their product to many states" due to the crazy government control freaks. Get your Waterlox or Behlens before UNCLE SAM/EPA stops those products also from shipping, too. It's just a matter of time. Next thing you know, we will have to wear seat belts, safety harnesses and helmets when woodworking. Hope you learned something here. It took me 20 years to gather this information through experience.

This product saves me a step (and time) when I refresh my house trim (golden oak). Over time my 28 year old baseboard trim gets nicked or the poly and stain begin to fade. Also helps with pet scratch marks on doors and trim. Sometimes light sanding on the doors may be required to remove deep scratches but the Danish Oil blends in with the surrounding undamaged trim after applying over the sanded portion of the door. I just make sure the trim and doors are clean by using a clean rag and water. After the surface dries I apply the Danish Oil as instructed on the container. Instructions say to apply one coat then apply a second coat after 15 minutes or so. Wipe off the excess 15 minutes after applying the second coat. The instructions say you can apply poly (as an option) at some point after it dries but I decided it wasn't really necessary. I used an old wash cloth to apply the stain and a second wash cloth to wipe off the excess. (I've also used (blue) shop towels that work well.) I refreshed my trim and doors In the past by applying golden oak stain and followed up with wipe on poly after the stain had dried. Danish oil accomplished the same thing in one step in half the time. I like saving time and money.

Love it. Beautiful solid finish

The oil itself is fine. But the 'tamper-proof' type cap is a PITA. I stripped the catches and had to pry the cap off

Good

It was so easy to use. The colour I bought is a natural teak tint. But I applied it directly after sanding. No sealant or top coat required. The finish was smooth and most importantly my piece was ready to use after 8 hours.

Excelente !!! Tengo alrededor de 5 años utilizando los aceites de la marca WATCO, DANISH Y TEKA Interiores y exteriores para madera En muebles de madera sin pintar y solo con aplicar los aceites conservan el color original

The review says 4pkt but only one tin of oil arrived.