Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo, Multi Color 3D Printer with ACE Pro, Max 600mm/s High Speed, Intelligent Filament Drying Nozzle Clog Detection, 250 * 250 * 260mm Size

I rarely write a review unless some thing is really good or really bad. I have always bought Creality printers and they did the job but this printer is just amazing. easy to put together, quality materials, looks great and works great. I have not used any type of glue or spray on the bed and I am on my 20th print no with no adhesion issues.I wish there was better control of the speed of the printer while it was printing but I also do realize I am use to printing very slow and this will print in detail at a fast speed.To me it is quiet because it is quieter then my other printers.I can honestly say for once in my life I am happy with the $ I spent on this because it has worked flawless.It is LARGE and takes up some room.

by far the best machine you can get for the price. amazing performance amazing print quality. easy to use and set up is so so easy.

FYI. I do have experience in 3D printing and already own an Anycubic Kobra Max, and a Kobra2 Neo. They are great printers, and workhorses. I wanted to upgrade, so I decided to get the Kobra3 with the Ace Pro combo.I got my Kobra3 Max before the ACE pro, so I set up the printer first and ran a print. Checked all the belts, pulleys, nuts, and bolts. Everything was in order. Ran the calibration, and everything was ready for the first print. As the first print started, the hot end dropped and scratched the bed. I ran another calibration, and it seemed to do the trick. The print started the first layer with no problem. When it got to the second layer, the Y axis was off by 20mm. The layer after that was another 20mm off on the Y axis, and the printer head dropped again. I checked the belt, pulleys, nuts, and bolts again and ran another calibration. I still had the same problem. I contacted Anycubic, and they gave me links to basic information about checking the belts, pulleys, nuts, and bolts, and run the calibration. A product that is brand new, out of the box should work, and it's not my responsibility to fix it, so I sent it back for a replacement. I got the replacement the next day. (Thanks Amazon) I put it together and WOW! This thing is fast, and the prints came out fantastic. About 2 days later, I received the ACE pro and hooked it up. All was great on the first layer, but when it went for the first color change, the printer stopped short of the cutter, and returned to the print 20mm offset of the print. I tried everything I could think of, and even tried to tweak the G-code. No matter what I did, it always shifted 20mm on each color change. I contacted Anycubic again and got the same run around. Well, that was enough. I sent both the printer and ACE pro back for a refund. I ended up buying the Ender5 Max, and I'm very happy with it.

Updated review:Having spent time with this thing, I stand by my prior statements. However, I have since done the Klipper install, switched to Orca Slicer (highly recommended over the alternatives), and fine tuned the printer. With Klipper, Orca and some good settings, this thing can produce remarkable quality at surprising speeds; The top speed is lower than my other printer by half (still waiting to see that 500mm/s), but the acceleration is so high (thanks in part to input compensation in Klipper) this thing regularly out-paces it, and achieves similar if not higher quality on average.if you have a spare Pi sitting around, and are comfortable with Linux, and don't mind using Orca, and can find the appropriate guides online, this thing is an easy 4.5 stars for the price I paid. Out of the box, if you can't/won't/don't know how to do those things, you're gonna have a rougher time getting this thing to produce quality prints at anything beyond your typical Ender 3 speeds.Positives: Can be upgraded, works great with Klipper, great hardware for the money on sale. More compact than my other printer while having the same print area.Negatives: Needs to be upgraded to Klipper to achieve anything close to advertised speeds on anything you would actually consider a finished product (or you have to write the Marlin firmware with input compensation already dialed in, I suppose). AnyCubic's slicer is crap, and the printer seems to behave oddly with objects sliced in Cura and Prusa. Feels cheap and light. Requires maintenance more regularly than my other printer.Should you buy it?If you catch it for under $180 and don't mind a slow printer or are willing to put in the work to make it actually capable, yeah. You're gonna have a hard time beating the features for the money.If you're looking for an easy to use, high-speed printer, just be aware this one is going to take work, and you may want to look higher up in the price bracket for something that will require less tuning and modding to get satisfactory results from. Also if it's at the full list price, just wait, or pick a different printer. You have better options at that price point.Original/second review:Second 3D printer. The first one had to be returned 3 times, and gave me a bunch of trouble. Anycubic has a decent reputation, so I thought I would give the Kobra 2 Neo a shot.First, the good:Assembly was simple enough. It printed a benchy and a spider from the SD card quite nicely. It was cheap. When it is behaving, it works well enough.Now the everything else:This piece of garbage purges filament on an auto level cycle. Expect to lose around a gram of filament any time you auto level, and it doesn't even have the courtesy to do it over the board; it just extrudes a gram or so of filament during the "wipe" cycle, then moves to the back of the board.It is so cheap they didn't include bumpers on the back of the bed so you can put the build plate back in place easily. I would print them, but that would require the printer actually function.It has bed adhesion problems to the point where a print failed with a brim, 5C hotter on the bed, and PVA glue to bond it to the bed. Seriously, I don't know what this board is made out of, but no amount of cleaning, leveling or adhesive has made a difference. Which is weird, because I have seen people print PLA onto unheated glass.Adjusting the temperature at the beginning of a print has resulted in the printer's software halting about halfway through the first layer, the printer stops, the head lifts, and then it resets. This is a repeatable issue; all I have to do is start a print and adjust the temperature before the first layer starts printing.There is no fan control available during printing. You can adjust the z-offset, but not the fan speed. I could work around this with Klipper or possibly Octoprint, but then I wouldn't be judging the printer on its own merits.All attempts to print PETG have gone poorly. No amount of adjusting temperatures, nozzle pressure or retraction settings has produced a final product that isn't stringy, blobby and nasty looking. It's not the filament, I'm running the exact same roll in my other printer right now and it has printed something on the order of 60 pieces.The printer looks and feels both light and cheap. You need a rock solid surface or you're going to be printing very slow to avoid z-wobble and ghosting and layer shifting. The frame isn't solid enough to keep the thing from vibrating like a child who got into Uncle Joe's ADHD meds, so you might as well get that 250mm/s print speed out of your head unless you're going to setup input shaping to cancel out some of that vibration. So far as I can tell, you need to install Klipper firmware to do this, so it won't be happening.The webpage is annoying to navigate and appears poorly formatted. I did eventually find the firmware downloads, only to discover that no, there is no firmware update that might fix some of the issues.Their slicer is pretty basic, so I tried using their Cura profile. About 50% of the time, objects sliced with Cura (using Anycubic's profile) will cause the print bed to move all the way forward, the print head to move all the way right, and then it will extrude the full amount of filament for the model without moving.The best part of all this? I bought the printer with filament, so it's Anycubic's filament that is failing on their printer. I'm literally cranking out 60 parts to every 2 or 3 that are acceptable quality from the Anycubic. Maybe I got a bad egg, but this experience has made me appreciate how good a time I have had with my other printer, which failed to the point of being returned 3 times, killed a diamondback nozzle and sometimes drives me insane. Other printer is still going, I'm about to box the Anycubic up.Edit: I noticed a loose v-wheel during dissassembly. I tightened it on initial assembly and the printer ran for all of 3 days before it started having problems. Presumably the vibrations in the frame on the original stand (which was kinda wobbly, admittedly) worked it loose. Added 2 stars to reflect the fact that it is, in fact, functional.It is still very hands-on getting it to behave, and tall prints still have issues for.. reasons, but if you are willing to put in the work, you can get some decent quality out of this thing. Currently it prints single pieces with similar quality to my other printer doing batch prints. Since it has passed my tests (so far) I will retry my tests with PETG and update results accordingly.. I may do the Klipper install to see if I can use input shaping and pressure advance to get this thing printing at high speeds reliably.I have also been recommended to try Orca Slicer with it; I will update results accordingly when it's done.