Official Creality 3D Printer Ender-5 S1 250mm/s High-Speed Printing 3D Printers with 300℃ High-Temp Nozzle Direct Drive Extruder, CR Touch Auto Leveling, Stable Cube Frame High Precision,220X220X280mm

For the first month my Creality 3D CR-10S 3D Printer had very few issues. It came with a warped aluminum bed bowed downward in the center that I was willing to deal with as it seems to be a pretty common occurrence with this printer. There was also a slight issue when adjusting the Z axis too quickly as the machine would freak out and try to drive its nozzle into the build plate indefinitely. This was solved by not manually adjusting the Z axis too quickly and powering off the machine if you accidentally did adjust it too quickly.I bought the “Official Creality 3D CR-10S 3D Printer with Filament Monitor Upgraded Control Board and Dual Z Lead Screw 300x300x400mm” from the seller “Creality 3D” because the items description stated that they were the “ONLY official Creality 3D Amazon store” and also claimed to “provide a 1-year limited warranty”.I could have purchased the CR-10S for a little cheaper somewhere else but I figured I would pay a little more so that if I did experience any issues, I would be taken care of with little to no hassle.Believe it or not on the 31st day of owning my printer (one day past Amazons return window) my nozzle stopped heating up. The LCD screen display does read that it is in fact heating up and will go from room temperature to the desired temperature (on the display) but the nozzle itself stays cool. I took a Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer and the temperature of the nozzle is heating a very small amount but hardly at all. The nozzle remains just above room temperature. I pointed the thermometer up and into the fan housing structure and noticed that something in there was heating up but it didn’t seem to be the nozzle or the heat block.So, I decided to do some troubleshooting… this is where the problems began. When I tried to remove the fan housing to get a better look at the printers heating elements the screw towards the left side of the enclosure was completely and utterly stripped. Whoever put my machine together stripped the screw so badly that there was absolutely NO resistance to the Allen wrench at all. Completely stripped and they sent it out to me anyways. For those of you who buy your printers here make sure to check all of your screws and bolts when it arrives…After 2 days of working on that DANG and STUBBORN screw trying to get the dumb thing off, which was an absolute NIGHTMARE by the way, I finally succeeded (I bought a SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor kit which barely worked, but it did work so thank goodness). After I got the fan enclosure off, I was able to access the Thermistor, Cartridge Heater, Heat Block, Heat Sink, Nozzle, etc.After inspection I did not see any disconnected wires or any visual signs of a problem with the heating elements. When I set the temperature of the nozzle to 230 most of the hot end remains at room temperature while other parts do seem to be warming up to around 100. The bottom of the heat block is pretty cool but on the top of the heat block where the heat block meets up with the heat sink this area seems to be the hottest spot I could find.I am currently going to rate this printer at 2/5 Stars. I might change this to a higher rating if Creality support can help to get my printer up and running again, which so far they seem to be making an effort to do.It arrived with a stripped screw, a warped bed, and it is totally inoperable after barely one month of use. Some times bad and defective parts slip through though and i might have just gotten unlucky.I gave it Two Stars instead of One Star as Creality has such a loyal and helpful community. I did a lot of research before purchasing the CR-10S and still think that it was the best choice for me.I as a buyer do not mind coming to a mutually beneficial outcome with the seller and I don’t mind troubleshooting and trying to fix an electronic that isn’t working correctly. I understand that sometimes defective products occur and this might be one of those instances.Update: 05/16/2019I was able to verify that Creality 3D Direct is in fact an official source for Creality products and is not some kind of third-party seller claiming to be an official source. I was able to verify this through their amazon email address which used the domain name of their official website. So, this is legitimately Creality.Creality support has reached out to me and currently seems to be doing what they can to help me fix my printer.I will try to keep this review updated as to the progress I have made in getting my printer functional again.Update: 7/25/3019I want to start this update by saying Thank You to Creality. Their customer support went above and beyond expectations and their reputation for having outstanding customer service is well earned.My printer has been repaired and has been up and running for about a month now and seems to be working perfectly. I have printed a lot of beautiful models and objects with my CR-10S and they have turned out fantastic. I just started getting into printing lithophanes and it’s been pretty cool.I love the build volume that the CR-10S offers. It allows me to print large objects and I don’t have to worry about printing a bunch of small objects one at a time and then gluing them together to create the larger object. I can just print it all at once. If I’m printing a mechanical object, I could also print multiple pieces for the object at once instead of just one or a few at a time. I could also print larger lithophanes which seem to look better than the smaller ones when held up to the light.If you are looking for a 3D printer then you are in the right spot. This is it. If you don’t need or want a bigger build volume then you could go with Creality’s other printer the Ender 3 which has some pretty great reviews as well.I have updated my review to 5/5 Stars.After everything is said and done, I do have some recommendations/modifications/suggestions:- Check your screws and make sure none of them are stripped when you get your printer. This can cause a headache later and is not a fun experience. I found a couple of other people online who ran across this problem as well. Coincidentally it was the exact same screw that was stripped on mine. This could just be a new person on the job simply over tightening the screws but it is something to consider.- Check your bed and make sure that it is level. If it is not or if it warps when printing materials that require a higher temperature on your build plate you can place tape (either painters’ tape or aluminum tape) on the low areas of the aluminum bed and then put your build surface on top of that. I used tape and then found that using aluminum foil works really good as well.- The print cooling fan on Creality printers works okay is efficient enough for most people’s projects but if you find that your printing thin layers and that your print is curling up, especially when it is printing overhangs, then look into printing the Petsfang Bullseye modification off of Thingiverse. It’s amazing and the guy that designed it (David Petsel) put a lot of love into its design and offers it for free (which is incredible). You just download the model (from Thingiverse), slice it (I use Cura with the Creawsome mod to get my models ready for printing), print it up and install it. It uses all the stock parts that come with the printer and its cooling capability is quite noticeable.- Check and make sure that your Bowden tube is flush with your printer’s nozzle. Locking the Bowden tube onto the heatsink can sometimes pull the Bowden tube away from the nozzle and create a gap between the Bowden tube and the nozzle allowing plastic to build up in that space. This buildup can create unwanted variables and can affect the quality of your prints.- Calibrate your extruder. There are lots of tutorials online to help you do this and it’s not as daunting as you might think. In fact, it was quite easy and made a noticeable difference in my prints.Future modifications that I plan on doing include a Bowden tube replacement, a stand for the control box, a new spool holder, replacing the stock screws with Heat-Resistant Silicone Buffers, installing Stepper Motor Vibration Dampeners, and of course Octoprint.I hope that this review is able to help others who may be looking into getting a 3D printer. You can’t go wrong with the Creality CR-10S. Thanks again Creality!Happy Printing!

I have experience building an Ender 3 and an Ender 3 V2. The CR10S is pretty much a much bigger Ender 3. So for those looking at starting to get into 3d printing, I hope you find this review.I have to start with the negative:- Came pre-assembled but it was done poorly.- The SD card it came with did not work- The glass bed sucks with adhesion.- The fillament roll holder is in a very awkward position.- Loud (but to be fair I knew it was going to be loud but I didn't think it would be THAT loud)With that in mind, if you have no existing knowledge of 3d-Printer building I would say this isn't the one for you. I would recommend starting off with an Ender 3 because that experience will transfer over to this one with some minor differences.Verdict: So after buying a new SD card, buying a new carbon fibored-layered printing bed, disassembled and reassembled better, modifying the spool holder to go on top of the printer, upgrading the bowden tube and extruder, tuning and calibrating, and putting this printer where I can't hear it.... it is a pretty darn good printer👍.You really can't beat the return on this for $300 BUT it's going to require some work. I would highly recommend this to people who know a fair amount of 3d printing and want to get a bigger printer. Beginners beware.

This is my second CR-10 so getting one with the improved plate, extra filament and upgraded controller board (not sure if 32 bit, though), and the filament detector were considered crucial for me. It was extremely well packaged and this included a much more fleshed out assembly guide. I spent a lunch break putting it together and was printing the provided Dog file before I clocked back in. Assembly was literally half an hour, wiring was 10 minutes, leveling was another 15 including heat up. (The dog file prints in the back right corner, so that quick snap to position was jarring). I had no other upgrades besides what came in the box and based on the first build I don't need to upgrade much else.There was a loose bolt on the z axis guide that was causing some Z wobble on my second build, so as someone else pointed out, tighten all of the bolts before your first build. The dog build in the picture was done before the wobble was found, and there's no evidence of it in the dog. Recommend running Benchy after bed leveling to find any other issues before you get into serial printing.This is well worth the price tag.