Pro'sKit 300-005 Crimper, Ratcheted, AWG 20-18, 16-14, 12-10.Non-Insulated, Open Barrel terminals, Multi

I made one practice crimp, and it destroyed the connector. I turned the crimper pressure release adjustment down one position and tried again. All succeeding crimps looked like they came off a factory assembly line. I have no experience at this, but can now make crimps that are permanent and professional-looking. This tool crimps the wire to the connector and the insulation for strain relief in a one step process. One squeeze and you are done. Once you get the release pressure correct, select connector and stripped wire. Insert connector with the tangs pointing towards the concave heart shaped direction of the crimper (i.e.: away from the male crimper tab.) Also, the direction the connector is inserted is important. The connector portion goes in the smaller die side. The insulation strain relief portion goes in the (slightly) larger die side. Squeeze crimper handles slightly to hold the connector. Insert the stripped wire. Squeeze the handles until the release mechanism engages. Marvel at the professional results you just achieved! Amazing results from a reasonably priced tool.

These crimpers work great. There is a quality black coating on the metal that has held up well so far. The grip on them is a comfortable rubber that helps keep an easy grip on the tool, but it isn't so sticky that it holds dirt.The ratchet mechanism helps to hold the pins of a small connector while getting all of the small components and the wire aligned before crimping. The ratchet has a release lever near the pivot point in case things aren't going right and you need to re position the pin or other components. The ratchet/crimp mechanism force can be adjusted for different sizes of terminals or pins. This helps keep from over crimping small terminals but also allows a strong crimp on heavier terminals.The gauge markings are a little offset so it can be confusing to read the correct one, but once you do a couple you get used to it. The jaws are removable and replaceable. There's no need for multiple crimp tools, just get the jaws you need.

This tool did not have enough leverage to crimp any non-insulated terminals. It did work ok on insulated terminals.

The tool I received is labeled Pro's Kit CP-336F. I went to their website and it says this crimper is for "Open barrel contacts AWG 20-18, 16-14, 12-10 D-sub, Molex, AMP style pin."Works good. There are 4 ways of inserting a connector into the crimper, 3 of the 4 ways are wrong and will make you think it is a piece of junk.Using a ring crimp connector as an example (but remember the company webpage said it is for crimping "Open barrel contacts AWG 20-18, 16-14, 12-10 D-sub, Molex, AMP style pin.")1. Insert the connector in the jaws with the ring coming out of the left side of the crimper and the wire coming into the right side. (See 1st & 2nd photo) You can place the connector in the crimper and just squeeze it enough for the 1st click of the ratchet to engage and it will hold the connector for you so you can have your hand free to position the wire in the connector.2. Make sure the ring connector is facing up. When I did it this way I was able to squeeze it far enough to release and open. (see 1st photo)This seems left handed to me, but that's how this one works.NEED TO KNOW: IF you have a connector in the jaws and can not get it squeezed down tight enough for the jaws to release, or you want to reposition the connector and have already engaged the ratchet, use the round shaft of a screwdriver (not the end) and just push the little short lever, that is between the grips, forward (toward the jaws) and it will release the ratchet. THAT's how you UNLOCK it when you need to release the ratchet.Just a note: I left the "pressure adjustment for actuation force" where it came from the factory.Stein Air has a wonderful video on using a tool similar to this on youtube.This is hard to squeeze through the ratchet cycle, so I place the bottom handle on the table top and push down on the top handle.And like I said use a screwdriver to release the ratchet lock as I show in the third photo.ALSO - Note these are for non-insulated connectors (connectors without plastic covering). I used an insulated one (has plastic on it) so I used the largest opening and it worked but it is not the tool for these insulated connectors.

More offshore 'kinda-works' crimps. Mangles the insulation grabbing fingers making them useless. Wire has to insert from the right side unless you like holding them upside down. Pretty much a worthess tool.

This is an amazing tool. It saved me over $100 from buying the "name brand - OEM" tool, and this does the crimp and flag all in one stroke, where the oem tool is a two step crimp. Some other reviewers on here have left poor reviews because the purchased the wrong crimper for their application. I purchase this tool about 9-10 months ago, been using it at least 2-3 times a week in the shop and in the field and its a solid tool, never let me down and always does the crimp with no problem.We do electrical oem assembly work, and we have to have our crimp tools "tested" and our crimps are "pull tested" by an independent company and all of our crimps have passed the manufactures specs on pull test and crimp load. This tool is just as good if not better than the OEM.